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Antarctica In the late ’90s, I booked myself on an expeditionary voyage into the Antarctic Circle and was instantly hooked. Since then, I’ve returned to Antarctica a number of times and ventured deep into the Arctic – from Svalbard to the Russian and Canadian Arctic – always chasing that same sense of wonder. It’s this rare personal experience of the world’s polar extremes that I bring to every journey I plan.
My early travels took me through much warmer climes: five years of overlanding, hitchhiking and working my way across Africa, Asia, Australasia and Latin America. It was a kind of university of travel, and it eventually led me to a career in specialist travel, where I’ve stayed ever since. Outside of travel, I spend my time practising rural skills and ancient crafts – from hedge laying to flint knapping to coracle building – so I know how to weave meaningful, hands-on experiences into the itineraries I create.
If you’re only going to Antarctica once, this is the itinerary I’d choose. Combining the Falklands, South Georgia and the Antarctic Peninsula, it offers three different perspectives of the Southern Ocean.
Begin in the Falklands, with its distinctively British charm and windswept beaches teeming with gentoo penguins. From there, sail to South Georgia, where mind-blowing numbers of king penguins gather beneath jagged peaks, and Shackleton’s story comes to life. Then continue south to the Antarctic Peninsula, with icebergs tilting into mirror-calm seas and leopard seals curiously peering into Zodiacs.
This route captures the sheer scale, diversity and drama of the polar regions. Having done it myself, I can safely say it’s the most complete introduction to Antarctica you could hope for.
If you’re looking for something truly off the beaten track, this Arctic itinerary offers one of the most intimate wildlife experiences. Base yourselves just outside Churchill in a remote eco-lodge, where you can walk alongside wild polar bears – on foot, in small groups, with expert guides – a world away from the usual vehicle-based safaris.
Begin with a flight from Winnipeg to Churchill before transferring by bush plane to the lodge. Each day brings guided tundra walks to view polar bears up close, entirely on their terms. It’s both humbling and exhilarating. There’s also the chance to see Arctic foxes, snowy owls and, in the right season, the dancing northern lights.
Travel in summer to combine this with kayaking alongside belugas in Hudson Bay, or go in early winter for snow-covered landscapes and aurora-filled skies.
This is the voyage I’ve dreamt of doing for decades, into one of the most remote and historically rich corners of Antarctica. Only a few hundred people are able to visit the Ross Sea each year, which makes the idea of reaching it feel all the more special.
I’d begin by sailing from New Zealand, stopping at the sub-Antarctic islands en route. These remote outposts are home to rare endemic birds and the bizarre ‘mega herbs’ that somehow thrive in these harsh southern latitudes. From there, I’d cross the Southern Ocean to the edge of the Ross Ice Shelf: a vast, frozen wall that stretches as far as the eye can see and home to emperor penguins.
The highlights for me would be the relics of the age of exploration with the chance of stepping inside Shackleton’s hut at Cape Royds and Scott’s at Cape Evans, places I’ve read about for years that stand frozen in time.
“You have got to send Sue to South Georgia – it will blow her mind” were the words that convinced my manager that three weeks out of the office was an option. This was true South Georgia, way, way beyond my expectations. During my four days there it threw the full gambit of weather, luck, disappointment and emotions at me.
You know you are heading to the remote north when snow comes in through the airplane vents. We were skimming along the coast north of Churchill in a de Havilland DHC-3 Otter, heading towards Seal River, and by the time we bounced along the dirt runway I had a fine white coating.
Tell us what you love doing and we’ll curate a journey that’s perfect for you.
The Rest of the Team
With a combined total of more than 180 years working in travel, we are a small and immensely knowledgeable team of experts. Having driven vintage cars in Havana, climbed granite domes in Yosemite, snorkelled with sea lions in the Galapagos and camped in Antarctica, our passion lies in curating bespoke journeys for our clients, balancing our in-depth local knowledge with a penchant for picking up on the little details that make you tick.
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