Have you noticed how we are promised things all the time? Glossy magazine brochures, league tables, stars and rosettes, that helpfully manage our expectations of everything from sports teams to hotels and restaurants or even schools. That 5-star promise should mean a guarantee of the best, and yet how often have you paid the money to turn up to a top venue, sporting occasion or hotel, and found that it’s not all it’s cracked up to be?
I was having a bit of a personal crisis when my friend Kate Hitchen, a senior travel consultant with Steppes Travel, happened to stop by my house for a cup of tea. I broke my latest news – the company I worked for had ceased trading, so I was out of a job. Steppes Travel are a luxury tour operator and Kate was about to go on an inspection tour in India. Somehow within that conversation, as she looked into my sad, sad face, I was invited to tag along. I had never been to India; I had never thought of it as a holiday destination and I had little knowledge of the country except for some post-colonial fiction, news articles and several trips to the local restaurant Bombay & Co in Cheltenham, which serves, as I was to discover, deliciously authentic Indian street food. Armed with the suspicion that watching The Jungle Book and being able to tell a masala dosa from a pani puri was probably not enough to judge a nation by, and intrigued to find out more, I paid for my flights, had some jabs and 10 days later, I was driving us to the airport.
Arriving in Delhi, it was around midnight local time. The VIP meet and greet at the plane was very much welcomed. Not having had much time to set my own expectations, it curbed the apprehension of coming into a foreign country and feeling disoriented. The buggy ride to immigration, making sure we had filled in the correct forms, collecting our bags and delivering us to the representative from Encounters Asia, a partner of Steppes Travel, all made for a smooth entry into India.
Having had a far-too-short, but peaceful first night at The Claridges and a very good breakfast including delicious pastries, we were whisked off by our driver on a discovery tour of Delhi. Our guide Harsh was knowledgeable yet empathetic. He ensured we understood the juxtaposition of religions, gave us just enough history not to glaze over at who was ruling and when, and provided us with an appreciation of the enormous amount of people living in such a small space. After experiencing my first chai, served in a terracotta cup, Harsh showed us behind the scenes of the Gurudwara Sikh Temple, which has one of the biggest community kitchens in Delhi, followed by the awesome Jama Masjid, a huge congregational place of worship for Muslims. A brief ride in a rickshaw took us into the heart of Old Delhi where Harsh knew where to find some fantastic street food. Harsh, clearly at the top of his game, had delivered everything promised and I came away feeling I had a true experience of an amazing city.
Lunch was a delight – yes, more food! A tasting menu at the charming Haveli Dharmapura, a 200-year-old authentic Haveli of Mughal architecture. As Kate made her way to inspect their probably immaculate rooms, I was delighted to sit and take the chance to have a glass of wine. Having a background in wine I was happy to be introduced to Sula Chenin Blanc, a well-made wine with all the characteristics of the Loire varietal and matching the wonderful food perfectly. As we left the Haveli, we were swept up in a procession of naked Jain monks, a sight that I wasn’t expecting to see. I’m not sure I understood the intended moral of this ritual, which is to spread peace, from this unclothed display but it was definitely a moment Kate and I won’t forget!
Back at the airport we met Amit Sankhala, the owner of Encounters Asia, who had planned our trip with Kate and would be with us, schedule at the ready, to make sure we got to where we needed to be for the rest of our time in India. Amicably, we renamed him ‘chop-chop guy’, which probably trivialised the fact that he and his family name are a big deal in Indian tourism and conservation, particularly tiger conservation. Amit is friendly, knowledgeable and carries the intensity and passion his family are renowned for. That said, all I knew at the time was that my trip continued with ‘chop-cop guy’ making us run for the plane to Jaipur.
The pink city of Jaipur offers plenty of attractions. We met our guide early and hiked a small part of the amber heritage trail, taking us high into the hills. After the smoky, polluted atmosphere of Delhi, the fresh air was welcome and the scenery breath-taking. A local man was delighted at Kate as she took up his offer of trying a freshly picked gooseberry, apparently an incredible source of Vitamin C. His face erupted in mischief as she bit into the sour flesh and he roared with laughter and we with him; his wicked giggle was infectious. Kate didn’t mind at all, another experience for her to chalk up on her extensive travels around India building more memories to take home and pass on to her clients.
Arriving back at the car, Kate and Amit went off to inspect the hotels of Jaipur and I was lucky enough to have a guided tour of the Amber Fort. My guide was very thoughtful in understanding what I was interested in hearing and gave me a whistle-stop tour including inside, above the residence of the current royal family. The palace is rich in history and architecturally stunning, with formal gardens, wonderful views and enough glitter and decoration to live up to its palatial name. Surveying the courtyard below, I realised elephants were still being used to transport people around the palace. Surprisingly recent changes concerning the welfare of these magnificent animals mean there are no new elephants being introduced but the old ones, for who it is now a way of life, still roam the courtyard inspiring an atavistic sense of nostalgia for an era seemingly far-gone but still tangible in much of what I experienced during my time in India.
I got back in the car to go to the restaurant where I was re-joining Kate and Amit for lunch. I sat in the car, but it didn’t move. The congested streets, which sometimes seem as if the city is moving as one, had come to a standstill. Fortunately for me, this meant that I got to walk through the busy streets of Jaipur. As I casually strolled across a roundabout, avoiding dogs and cows, and stopping rickshaws and cars in their tracks, I almost felt like a local. Just move confidently into the available space, simple! The walk took me down a street where trading was taking place. Jaipur is known for its trade in precious gemstones. Bidding was fierce for whatever was on offer and the energy was palpable. Having made it to lunch unscathed, we enjoyed a range of dishes at The Johri before travelling onward.
We arrived at Ramathra Fort, an ancient battle fort on the edge of the Kailadevi National Park, in the pouring rain and in the dark. Although hard to tell in the conditions, the steep approach to the fort sparked a sense of adventure, promising a genuine experience without pretence or glossy shine. After a fantastic breakfast, Uditchandra Pal, the latest generation at the Ramathra Fort, took us out on a game drive in one of their restored Jeeps. We took in some awe-inspiring scenery and saw birds including the pied kingfisher, heron, stork, cormorant, and egret. More time could have afforded us a sighting of a tiger, leopard, hyena or wild dog. We stopped at a local village and chatted to the people, getting a true feel of what makes India so special.
This is a place whose identity is deeply rooted in conservation and guests directly contribute to the cause, hardwiring them into the future history of the fort. The fort has been restored by its owners and there are plans to restore more, but not all, so keeping its authenticity and sense of history intact. There are touches of luxury here making it special because it’s not expected; the hot tub with its regal setting high above the farmlands below; the delicious food; rooms with views that are paradise for any birdwatcher. But mostly it is deliberately natural, bringing the wilderness in and the ethos is captured in the authenticity of the surroundings. It is a place that doesn’t over-promise what it has to offer and invites you to feel lucky you have stayed.
A relatively short drive that afternoon took us to Ranthambhore National Park, India’s most renowned wildlife sanctuary and the heart of Project Tiger, of which the founder was Amit’s grandfather.
We had lunch at the exclusive Aman Resort. The menu was diverse and the options were tempting but having been on-the-go for a few days now and having eaten a lot of curry, we shamefully all ordered the Club Sandwich, which was delicious. Room inspections followed for Kate and Amit, and I sat peacefully in the library, which was warm and cosy. I imagined that returning here for some peace and quiet after an early morning safari drive would be blissful. It offers a space to reflect, to write down experiences or digest them to the memory bank to be brought out as stories in a ‘remember when …’ moment years later. These ‘remember when…’ moments are what makes the trip everlasting. The stories we commit to memory enable us to recount extraordinary tales and pass the excitement on to our friends and family. As I write this, I remember listening to my grandfather talking about his experiences in colonial Africa – “Remember when we were charged by that rhino Mary, that was tricky wasn’t it” – I only wish I’d asked him more questions.
We stayed overnight at Aman’s neighbour, the Sujan Sher Bagh. As Kate went off to inspect other properties in the area, I was shown to my luxury tent where I had front row seats to a show of cheeky grey langur monkeys chasing each other and swinging off the trees onto the tent roof. Diligent staff chased them away and they departed with a look of distain, their expressive faces promising a return visit.
Pre-dinner cocktails next to the crackling campfire and a delicious traditional Indian thali for dinner with another Sula wine, this time the sauvignon blanc, preceded a comfortable night before our early start on a game drive in search of the elusive tiger. To be clear, it was made known that we may not see a tiger. Kate has been to India many times and only had one sighting (from the back), but we were positive and had heard many stories in the resort of sightings. The game drive was spectacular. A hawk eagle, antelope, deer, monkeys, peacocks, crocodiles (including cute baby crocs all lined up in a row on a log sunbathing). Tea served with cakes next to a watering hole. No tiger, but no broken promises so, another excuse to return for me and the anticipation builds for Kate!
Onto another safari lodge and a different experience altogether. Chambal Safari Lodge is full of colonial charm. Owners Anu and Ram have transformed this formerly rundown property into a place of rustic tranquillity with thoughtful nods to conservation and protecting the environment evident throughout. Although not as luxurious as the previous property, sundowner G&Ts by the campfire, comfortable accommodation and good food cooked by the in-house chef all added to the appeal and we felt like we were amongst old friends, chatting away.
From Chambal we experienced a river safari. The serene water and early morning light, backdropped by landscapes tinged with brown and the sun breaking through a hazy fog, reminded me of Scotland. The seemingly docile crocodiles sliding into the water, turtles bobbing up and down and the occasional surfacing of a river dolphin brought me back to the present.
A long journey by road took us to Agra. This meant more hotel and room inspections for Kate and Amit, including The Oberoi where we had lunch. The only hotel with a view of the Taj Mahal, the food was delicious, the outlook almost fantastical. This being my first glimpse of India’s most iconic building, it still didn’t quite seem real but, as my friends disappeared to visit other local hotels, I again felt blessed to have been arranged a private tour. A golf buggy from The Oberoi drove me the short distance and my guide escorted me past the crowds, photographed me in the best spots and explained the history behind this most magnificent mausoleum.
Steppes Travel is a certified B-Corp. These are companies that are committed to positively impacting all stakeholders including local communities. To see the work being supported by local businesses, we visited the brave women of Sheroes Hangout in Agra. These women have been affected by chemical burns and the café and shop provide valuable work, empowering them and giving them back their lives. These incredible women have had to overcome life-changing injuries from vengeful acts that go far beyond the disappointment of a broken promise. I was proud to be with Kate, who was not blindsided by the opulence of these hotels and the luxury they offer their lucky clientele, but rather challenged them about their work with local communities and how they give back. A cathartic and thought-provoking day.
We said farewell to Amit and spent our last night in India back in Delhi at the opulent and fashionable Leela Palace. Kate mentioned on arrival that she had a sore throat and a thoughtful welcome drink of warm lemon, ginger and honey appeared. Classy. As Kate rested, I sat in the bar, ordered a cocktail which was made beautifully and read my book (code for people watching). This hotel is clearly where society want to be seen. It exudes luxury but there is a lot of thought and warmth here as well with immaculately trained staff, a great wine list and endless Insta-opportunities, so to deny its status seems flippant even if I’m more at home chatting around a campfire.
Spending a week being a fly-on the-wall to a friend working in an industry so far from my everyday was a revelation. Having a knowledgeable consultant like Kate is invaluable and sometimes, maybe promises are what you choose to see in things, there to be believed if you want to. A consultant can put things into perspective for you because they have scratched beneath the surface of the glossy brochures and the 5-star waffle. They can tailor an itinerary that will suit your story, so you can create your ‘remember when …’ moments, and they can do this because they have asked all the right questions. They can tell you from experience that the cutlery might not be waiting for you on the table, or that they might serve your wine in the wrong glass. But they can also tell you that the food is exceptional, the beds are comfy and the atmosphere is authentic. They have listened to the guests with interest and asked for their feedback in person, checked for the smoke detectors in the rooms to keep you safe, and challenged to see if the brand fits the commitments promised to you by Steppes Travel.
My whistle stop tour was the perfect introduction to a country that I look forward to revisiting. As for my career, well, all I needed was a cup of tea with a great friend to change the narrative. I gained a different perspective and was dealt a firm reminder that not all promises are broken, sometimes the gloss and shine is real and sometimes it is just an indication of something to make an informed choice on with the help of someone more knowledgeable. So, I’m going to stay in my lane and move forward with a bit more gas in the tank now that I’m confident of my direction of travel.
