Recently, I returned from a brief visit to Iceland, where I was impressed by the diversity you can experience in just a short trip. Although, I would always recommend spending longer if you get the chance.
Few places on earth feel as new and alive as Iceland. On arrival you can see the scars of the most recent eruptions of Sundhnukur, whilst on the road to the blue lagoon you drive over layers of previous roads, alongside the large lava barrier that has been constructed to protect the region. Sadly, much of the village of Grindavik was not so lucky.
Having seen the lava flows above ground, I had the opportunity to head underground into Raufarholshellir lava tunnel. It felt like you were stepping into the earth’s bloodstream. The rock walls varied from smooth rope-like formations to jagged stalactites formed by dripping lava, stained with streaks of iron and copper.
I then headed through the classic Golden Circle. This is the busiest tourist route but gives you thundering waterfalls, geysers and the continental divide. If you have the time, visit this over two or more days to get away from the crowds.
Haukadalur Valley is Iceland’s geothermal heart, a lunar-like landscape with bubbling mud pots, hissing fumaroles and vivid pools tinted turquoise, copper and ochre. The air smells faintly of sulphur, a reminder that this is a land forged in fire. Here Strokkur erupts every few minutes in a dramatic burst of boiling water and steam.
At Gullfoss – The Golden Waterfall – the Hvíta river pours into a narrow canyon, dropping over two low falls before thundering into a chasm, sending up plumes of mist that shimmer with rainbows when caught by the light. The power of water never fails to impress me and, with over 1000 waterfalls, Iceland is a cataractophile’s dream destination.
My personal favourite stop was Thingvellir National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site where geology meets history. Here, the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates are pulling away from each other, at a rate of around 2cm a year: real-time geology. With more time I would have dearly loved to have snorkelled between the plates in the crystal clear, and extremely cold waters of the Silfra Fissure. Beyond its geological spectacle, Thingvellir holds deep cultural resonance as the birthplace of the world’s first parliament, the Althing, established in 930 AD.
The South Shore stretches from the outskirts of Reykjavík to the edge of Vatnajokull National Park. A wild, cinematic corridor of glaciers and volcanoes, waterfalls and black sand beaches, all sculpted by the restless meeting of fire and ice.
Driving across the world’s largest lava fields of South Iceland, created by some of the most powerful eruptions in the island’s history, is a surreal journey through time. Rivers of molten rock once flowed from volcanic craters high in the mountains, spreading across the lowlands before cooling into a rippled sea of basalt. Over centuries, these hardened flows have been softened by moss – a thick, velvety green that glows almost electric in the right light. Every contour tells of violence and yet today it feels profoundly still.
The volcanic plain stretches to the black sand beaches, stark, monochrome and utterly mesmerising. The waves, powerful and unpredictable, demand respect. This is no place for sunbathing; it’s a place to stand and feel small beneath the weight of nature’s power. The coastline is scattered with the occasional rock formations and sea stacks. All come with their own myths and legends- trolls turned to stone, pieces of a mountain being stolen by a Danish giant – whilst ravens, the messengers of Odin, wheel overhead.
At the far end of this region lies Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon. Here, icebergs calve from Breithamerkurjokull glacier and drift serenely toward the sea, their surfaces streaked with volcanic ash and glowing shades of blue. As they reach the mouth of the river they churn against the tide and bring up nutrients, which in turn entice in seals who bob up amongst the bergs. As the latter break up, some wash ashore on the nearby Diamond Beach, where they lie scattered across the black sand like shards of crystal.
I would have loved to carry on further east and onwards for a full circumnavigation of Iceland but that will have to wait for another time. All too soon I was back at Reykjavik airport for the short flight back to the UK.
