Light comes in many forms. It brings comfort and warmth, it guides us in darkness, it’s a symbol of celebration. I had set out in search of one particular light – the Northern Lights. In preparation for nine days exploring the 68th parallel in the Norwegian Arctic Circle, I packed with one goal in mind: to witness the elusive Aurora Borealis. As I stuffed my suitcase with thick socks, jumpers, and hats, I imagined standing beneath the shimmering colours that have captivated people for centuries.
Touching down into Harstad/Narvik Airport, I’m greeted by a brisk 4°C, confirming that my winter packing was well worth it. My Norwegian adventure had begun, though I didn’t yet know that it would be an adventure filled with many lights, not just the Aurora.
Arriving in September, the midnight sun is no longer, marking the beginning of the Northern Lights viewing season. After my first few days, I quickly realise the Aurora Borealis is a familiar sight for the locals and my chances seemed better than I’d imagined. Beginning on the island of Senja, just north of the Lofoten Islands, I check into an Aurora Room at Hamn i Senja. I am hopeful the room lives up to its name. After a full day travelling I try to stay awake, however my tired eyes give in. Maybe I’ll have better luck tomorrow.
I drive the Norwegian Scenic Route Senja, passing jaw-dropping viewpoints and stopping at Ersfjordstranda beach’s “Golden toilet”, which was underwhelmingly golden inside. Leaving Senja in the distance, I take the ferry from Gryllefjord to Andenes, the northernmost settlement on the island of Andøya, “Island of the Ducks” and a destination for whale and puffin safaris. Moved by a statue of a mother and baby waiting for her husband to return from sea, I pause to remember those taken by the waves.
Woken by my alarm at 2am, I force myself out of bed to scan the skies for the lights which never appeared. The next three nights my hope begins to fade. My journey then took me to Lofoten’s Nusfjord, one of the oldest fishing villages in Norway, where I settle into my Rorbu, an original fisherman’s cabin from the 1800s. I head to bed in the hope of a restful sleep. My mind is wondering and I find myself wide awake at midnight; I peek outside to see if the lights are active and notice a hazy blot in the inky black skies, presumably a cloud. I presume wrong. Over the next hour, I watch the Aurora Borealis playing in the skies above my head. Hues of green waves ripple across a backdrop of starlit skies, stretching out like curtains gently billowing in the wind. There’s a sense of peacefulness, of being connected to something far greater than myself. It’s humbling, breathtaking, and unforgettable. I had achieved what I came for. I had seen the Northern Lights.
Yet as my Arctic adventure continued, I began to realise that the magic of Norway is not just in the skies. Strobes of sunlight pierce the clouds, revealing double rainbows that arch over the turquoise waters of the fjords. It paints the mountains in shades of pink and gold as the day comes to a close. And then there are the people of Lofoten, like warm beacons of light. Their hospitality and kindness illuminated my journey in unexpected ways. The fishing trade, still thriving, felt like a steady flame, a connection to the generations who’ve lived and worked on these shores for centuries past. A resilience in a land where nature reigns.
I realized that the lights are always there – they shine through the landscape, the people, the history, and the simple, everyday moments. Be open to being open, speak to the locals, they will welcome you with open arms and let their stories light your path. Boundaries are lifted and you discover that people are just people. Here, the lights are always on guiding you to something greater than you thought.
