Early on Sunday morning, I headed to St Pancras having spent the night in one of many hotels within walking distance of the station. I was on the second train of the day. Surprisingly, the queue for the first train was particularly long, however the next departure was much easier and fed through more quickly. A number of cafes were open serving breakfast, despite the early hour on a Sunday morning.
After heading through security and scanners, with no liquid issues as long as the items were sealed, I headed straight on to French customs. I’m no linguist, but did hope that my cheery “bonjour” and “Merci” might be a little more appreciated by the surly Frenchman who stamped my passport.
I sat around until the train was ready to board. My seat was pre-allocated and the station marked, making it very easy to find the right carriage. My luggage could be stored overhead or at the end of the carriage, making sure to pack reasonably light.
Departing the station, we started on the journey to Brussels. At times the view wasn’t so eye-catching, passing through a number of tunnels. With only one quick stop before reaching Brussels, the journey didn’t seem to take long at all. Here, I changed trains to Cologne; a classic, German ICE train. High speed and with far more interesting views of the Belgian and German countryside, although a good book helps the time pass too.
When I reached Cologne, I couldn’t help but be wowed by the cathedral as I exited the station. It towered over me; its steps covered in locals and tourists alike enjoying the sun. My hotel was a mere five minute walk from the station and a great location in the heart of the old city. Much of Cologne was destroyed by the bombing campaigns of WW2, but if you stay within the mainly pedestrianised areas, there are plenty of old buildings to see, most with information boards. I recommend an early start to visit the cathedral before the hoards arrive, as this is most definitely the highlight of any visit.
In the evening, I crossed the bridge over to the far side of the river embankment. With people everywhere, it seemed like the place to meet and sit in the evening sun. Back in the old city, there are a plethora of restaurants, cafes and bars to suit all budgets and tastes too.
Later in the day I was informed that my onward train from Hamburg to Stockholm had changed departure time, now 45 minutes earlier, and to a different station. However, I was sent comprehensive details on how to find the new station and the time I would need. Unfortunately, my train from Cologne to Hamburg was delayed, leaving no opportunity to explore the city as I had hoped. In hindsight, I would have booked a stay in Hamburg and the daytime train the next day if I had more time.
Departing at 21:30, I found my cabin easily, moving through the narrow corridors. The night train to Stockholm is a far cry from the glamorous sleeper trains of the movies, but it was very functional. The cabin had a lower berth, and the option to use one of the upper berths. There was a toilet, sink and shower – which had a proper door to stop the rest of the bathroom filling with water. The bed was firm, but comfortable. The pillow could have been a little plumper, but nothing a folded fleece couldn’t sort. There was drinking water in cartons, along with chocolate. The train was quite rattly, but the motion soon enough lulled me to sleep. I would strongly recommend ear plugs and an eye mask to make this most comfortable.
In the morning, I walked along to the buffet carriage where I was given my breakfast, included in my ticket, along with a coffee. A pot of muesli, yoghurt, fruit juice and bread and jam – as good, if not better, than any airline breakfast. There were other options available to purchase too.
I arrived at Stockholm Central Station at around 09:00 and I was ready to go and explore.
All in all, if you have the time, this is a pleasant and rewarding way to travel. Be prepared for some delays and, possibly, avoid night trains to make the most of enjoying the journey and a better appreciation of the distance you are travelling. I spoke to more people and interesting chats, much more so than if I was flying.
