A country’s national sport gives a window into the collective psyche of its people. India’s love of cricket speaks volumes about the country’s fastidiousness, while the grand gesture of a homerun in baseball is the epitome of America’s proclivity for ostentation. So what does Kok Boru say about Kyrgyzstan?
There are moments when watching a game of Kok Boru, the sense of wonderment is so acute, you feel like your jaw is touching the floor. The same can be said when confronted with Kyrgyzstan’s outstanding landscapes. The country is largely untamed and all the more spectacular for it, and the people you will meet – some still living a nomadic existence – are endowed with a no-nonsense, spirit of adventure that puts great stock in nature and the great outdoors.
In Kyrgyzstan, children learn to ride a horse before they can walk, because in many parts of the country, travelling by horse is the quickest way to get around. In a country where horsemanship is currency and the need to adapt to a wild and at times, hostile environment is essential, Kok Boru is the perfect metaphor.
1. Men on horses appear on the hills overlooking Son Kul, gathering for a game of Kok Boro
2. The referee brings his grand-daughter along. He counts down to begin the game
Two teams compete on horseback for possession of a decapitated goat … in this case, the goat carcass has been substituted for a bag of sand (sometimes referred to as ‘ulak’). Weighing up to 40kgs, picking this up from the ground while staying in your stirrups takes strength, balance and courage.
Two goals called ‘kazans’ sit at each end of the pitch; circular wells surrounded by tyres in which the goat is deposited to score points.
3. Getting possession of the ulak before your competitor is a distinct advantage.
4. Competition is heated as men and horses use their muscle and guile to jockey for position
5. A long arm, a cool head and nerves of steel are essential. Not to mention outstanding horsemanship.
6. Once the ‘ulak’ has been snaffled, the person in possession high tails it towards the kazan…
7. …with the opposing team in hot pursuit.
While the competition is fierce and no quarter is given during the game, the players come together at the end of the event to shake hands.
Talk to our experts about including a game of Kok Boru in your holiday to Kyrgyzstan.
