Whenever I mention this tiny island nation, it’s always met with curiosity. Nestled in the heart of the Pacific, Palau is a place few have heard of but, once discovered, leaves a lasting impression.
I travelled through Palau’s isolated islands on the Four Seasons Explorer, an 11-cabin floating hotel. With impeccably appointed accommodation and outstanding service, luxury is its middle name. And the location – nothing short of exclusive. I felt like I’d won the lottery as I jumped on board. It was time to explore the magic.
Palau is made up of more than 340 islands yet according to landmass, it’s the fourth smallest country in the world. Despite
this, it has created one of the world’s largest marine protected areas in conjunction with the Palau Pledge, a reminder stamped in your passport on arrival. Signing the pledge declares your intention to tread lightly and explore mindfully. It’s a shame we need to be reminded but I’m impressed that Palau, at the start of its tourism journey, has recognised its importance. Shouldn’t all travel be this way?
The Coral Triangle is a revered region where the world’s most biodiverse marine ecosystems thrive; Palau lies at its heart. It’s here, amidst the vibrant waters, that the future of countless marine species is nurtured.
Regrettably, the impact of climate change has not spared Palau. The famed Jellyfish Lakes, home to thousands of golden stingless jellyfish, are witnessing a concerning population decline. Warming waters, it seems, are not conducive to reproduction. The six lakes that are off-limits to tourists are faring better, which suggests that restricting access even further may be key to preserving this fragile ecosystem.
Above water, the landscape is just as spectacular. Uninhabited rock islands dotted across this ocean space create a beautiful scene, especially from a bird’s eye perspective. I became obsessed with the ever-changing blue and green hues of the sea, the islands and the sky: a true tropical paradise.
Oscar, the marine biologist on board, delivered daily presentations about the region’s biodiversity and its delicate balance. Along with a team of dive instructors, he guided interested guests on dives and snorkelling excursions for a firsthand experience of the coral reefs. The Ulong Channel site was a personal favourite.
As the current carried me through sandy channels, the colours of the reef gradually rose on either side of me. Each section seemed to belong to a distinct grouper fish, in what can only be described as a form of ‘oceanic ownership’. These steadfast guardians vigilantly defended their territories and shooed away any would-be intruders. It felt as though I had drifted through a bustling urban district, but in reality this is a spawning ground and the groupers were fiercely protecting their domain.
Amidst the ebb and flow of the current, I lost count of the sharks. They moved with quiet authority. Some patrolled the reef in small packs, others rested lazily on the sandy bottom. Their presence, both calming and awe-inspiring, reinforced my realisation of the reef’s delicate balance.
Whilst the underwater world of Palau is captivating, the islands’ rich cultural heritage and verdant inland beauty offer compelling reasons to step away from the water. The mix of matriarchal and chief-structured society stands in stark contrast to many other cultures around the world.
I had the privilege of visiting one of the last remaining Bai, the traditional meeting place of the chiefs. Typically I’m not drawn to staged performances, but the sight of a group of women, led by the remarkable Wilma, dancing in full traditional regalia was unforgettable. Their movements, combined with the profound cultural significance of the setting, was one of those rare, goosebump-inducing experiences.
Fonzie, a local Palauan guide, took me on a tour of Babeldaob Island. With candid insight, he shared his perspectives on Palau’s political landscape and reflected on the nation’s 30 years of independence from the United States, while still maintaining a Compact of Free Association. We made our way along a path which followed a winding river, the distant rumble of a waterfall growing louder and louder. In another part of the world, such a breathtaking sight would have been teeming with tourists. Yet, we were alone. The team from the Four Seasons had thoughtfully prepared for our arrival and had brought chilled towels, refreshing drinks and a sumptuous lunch. Having rained heavily the week before, the waterfall was particularly majestic. I was momentarily apprehensive before I jumped in, but my sense of adventure ultimately triumphed. As I stood beneath the thundering water, the view from below was hypnotic. The smile that followed was borne of pure exhilaration.
A few days later, my delight turned into sadness and heartbreak when I learnt of the Battle of Peleliu, one of the most harrowing battles of World War II. In 1944, over the course of two months, around 12,000 lives were lost in a brutal confrontation between US and Japanese soldiers. I could feel the weight of history. I had no idea that this tiny island had seen so much bloodshed. The island has moved on, but remembrance and reflection remain.
As I think on my journey through Palau – its crystal-clear waters, its storied history and its warm, welcoming people – I am reminded of the privilege of truly discovering a place, and of the beauty and benefit of mindful exploration. Palau may be small but its impact on my heart and my mind, has been immense.
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