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South Korea Paul is the Conde Nast Traveller chosen Specialist for Central Asia and the Silk Route.
I first travelled to Vietnam in 1988, when tourism was barely a concept, and have been visiting Central Asia since it was still behind the Iron Curtain. Such first-hand experience makes all the difference when talking to clients. I know the importance of asking questions, not taking the first answer as gospel, and matching the right destination to the right person.
Growing up in a family with Army connections meant moving around – Europe, India, Asia – so travel has always been part of my life. Journeys alone, or with my younger brother, by train, car, aeroplane or on foot have always felt very normal. When starting out in my career, working for a specialist tour operator took me to places well off most people’s radar, from Nicaragua and Cuba to North Korea and Russia. Being old enough to remember the Soviet Union allows me to appreciate the journey that these former Soviet territories have taken to get where they are today.
This classic itinerary is perfect if you’re looking for a well-rounded journey through Central Asia. Begin in Kyrgyzstan’s capital, Bishkek, exploring Ala Archa Gorge and the lively Osh Bazaar before heading east to Chon Kemin village and the shores of Lake Issyk Kul. Visit the petroglyphs of Cholpon Ata, the Przhevalski Museum and the timbered cottages of Karakol, then cross into Kazakhstan to marvel at Charyn Canyon and soak up Almaty’s lively atmosphere.
A short flight takes you to Tajikistan, where the reclining Buddha of Dushanbe and the fortresses of Hissor await. Continue to Khujand’s markets before crossing into Uzbekistan to discover Tashkent’s ornate metro and artisan workshops. Journey on by train to Samarkand, before continuing to Bukhara’s mosques and Khiva’s perfectly preserved citadel. End in Turkmenistan, exploring the ancient sites of Nisa and Merv, reminders of Central Asia’s enduring role at the heart of the Silk Road.
This trailblazer itinerary through Iraqi Kurdistan begins in Erbil, where you can explore the 8,000-year-old citadel and meet those working on its restoration. Visit museums, mosques and bustling bazaars, before travelling to Gaugamela, site of Alexander the Great’s defining victory, and the 4th-century St Matthew’s Monastery. In Lalish, walk barefoot through the sacred Yezidi pilgrimage site, before continuing to Dohuk and the monasteries of Al Qosh.
From Shanidar Cave, where Neanderthal remains reshaped our understanding of prehistory, to the engineering marvels of the Hamilton Road and Rawanduz Gorge, the landscapes are as striking as the stories. Conclude back in Erbil, reflecting on a journey that blends ancient history with a people’s extraordinary resilience.
I’d begin in Dhaka, exploring Lalbagh Fort, the Liberation War Museum and the bustle of Old Dhaka by rickshaw. From there, I’d head northwest to Rajshahi and Bogra to uncover Bengal’s ancient past at Mahasthangarh and the vast Buddhist ruins of Paharpur, before continuing to Dinajpur’s ornate Kantanagar Temple and the palaces of Rangpur. The return journey to Dhaka would be broken with time in Sirajganj’s weaving villages.
From the capital I’d travel east into the Chittagong Hill Tracts, cruising on Rangamati Lake and visiting remote villages before heading into the hills of Bandarban. Time at Nilgiri and the secluded beauty of Boga Lake would showcase another side of the country, before returning to Dhaka overland with a stop at the Mainamati ruins near Comilla. This 11-day itinerary offers a complete picture of Bangladesh’s rich heritage.
The Karakoram Highway is a masterpiece of engineering. Artistically painted Bedford lorries ply the road, expressing the feelings of drivers who travel away from home for long periods. Massive birds of prey soar overhead, ibex bask in the sun and villages nestle in the mountain valleys. With a history dating back millennia, Pakistan will keep the interest of almost anyone occupied for weeks. Whether strolling through bazaars or going for a trek there is amazing diversity in Pakistan which remains one of my favourite destinations.
China has many minority nationalities – the Miao of South Central China, sprinkled with the Dong (Guizhou primarily), the Uighurs (Muslims in Western China along the ancient Silk Route) and the Tibetans (in Tibet and in Qinghai in Central China). During my 30 plus years travelling in China I have been lucky enough to spend time with many of these minority groups, learning about their varying cultural backgrounds and the landscapes they live in. From the karst limestone mountains in Guizhou to the vast open spaces of the Taklamakan Desert and the fertile grasslands of Qinghai.
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