An unforgettable day started with a kayaking expedition in glass bottomed canoes to Grenada’s underwater sculpture park where it’s possible to snorkel over and kick down to an ethereal world where rings of life-size statues hold hands, recumbent figures are scattered around the seabed and a lone typist sits at his desk considering, perhaps, how to word letters of redundancy while mocked by colourful circling Angel Fish.

After a resoundingly undignified scramble back into the canoe, John-Paul, Joseph and I paddled back past chomped-out bays and under the cloud shrouded peaks of Grenada’s moody interior to a colourful “stuck-on” beach bar for a rejuvenating Ting. I then set off into said moody interior to meet the legendary guide, Telford Bedeau.

Telfor is 73, 74 in October. He greets me with a warm smile and makes sure that I’m wearing suitable footwear for the half hour hike through the Grand Etang Narional Park to the Seven Sisters Waterfall, while sporting himself a pair of frayed and “seen better days” jellies. I’m already in awe of this slight man who is well known and given nothing but respect by every islander I have met.

Telfor’s pal in the bar where we meet calls him back to give him a walking stick – in hind sight, I’m sure that this is just a ploy to make me more comfortable accepting the oversize hiking pole that Telfor insists that I walk with. It’s a highly satisfying walk through beautiful forest and across a river to a stunning waterfall. He tells me about the medicinal properties of plants, we eat ripe mangos, I learn a lot about the forest and we have the falls to ourselves. He is also the most sprightly agile and athletic 73 year old I have ever met. I try not to wheeze too loudly as I deliberately lag behind out of respect…..

However, we sit down at the falls and the astonishing world around us melts away as Telfor starts to tell me all about his history and story. His liest memories are of an island without airports where the sound of a low-flying aircraft sent the population into panic that Hitler was flying in. Telfor walks – he spent a year in the early sixties in London working on the railways and exploring London on foot until he came to the conclusion that he would much rather be hiking through the lush green landscapes of Grenada. After walking the length and breadth of the country he built a boat and rowed around the island on his 50th birthday. He did it again at 60.

I cannot begin to list here the insights he gave me to an island that he is so obviously deeply in love with and I really do not want to make a circus of his experiences but Telfor delights in sharing both his island and his life.

If you wish to peel back the fruit and get to the spicy heart of Grenada, this warm, gentle and understated man is an ideal companion. Book him now before he decides to row around the island again or take his village on one of his “charabang” treats to a local fete or jump up.