Entries by Jarrod Kyte

Machali: A Legacy That Changed a Country

The eagerly awaited tiger census results were published in July 2019 and, as anticipated, tiger numbers in India have increased by 33%, from 2,226 to 2,967 since the last census in 2014. The history of the tiger in India is a complicated one. But this recent growth in the population does not just offer some […]

Argentina: Space travel

For many of us used to the clutter of consumerism, space is a commodity worth travelling for. The emptiness of a desert or a savannah reawakens a part of the brain. I am travelling across the puna in North West Argentina in the region of Salta. The skies are big and blue and the horizons […]

Fernandina sunset in the Galapagos

Can tourism in the Galapagos Islands be sustainable?

On my recent visit to the Galapagos I sought answers to this critical question, canvassing the opinions of people working in tourism, tourists and drawing my own conclusions. Where tourism has a critical role to play, is in the creation of vocal ambassadors for conservation in the world’s most fragile environments. Just as we can’t […]

Wild dogs in Africa

Dog Day Afternoon

I wrote the blog below in 2009, when I was manager at Kicheche Mara Camp. I spent two years in the Masai Mara and built up a bank of exhilarating safari memories. The afternoon I spent with wild dogs is the most enduring…the memory still gives me goosebumps. “As a young boy I would wake […]

BBC Dynasties: Nature or Nurture?

At Steppes Travel, we take hundreds of clients each year on wildlife safaris and so the debate on whether it is right to intervene when an animal is in peril is of particular interest to us. Given the means and opportunity, I’m sure there are very few of us that wouldn’t have taken steps to […]

Namibia - Skeleton Coast

Namibia and a Safari at the End of the World

Stay in the only lodge in Namibia’s Skeleton Coast national park and walk alongside desert adapted giraffe in the Hoanib. The best pitches are always the simplest and so it wasn’t long before the Financial Times were on the telephone wanting to know more about our idea for a press story in Namibia. We told […]

Carretera Austral, Patagonia Chile

A Shot in the Dark

We had been talking with Stanley Stewart for some time regarding a story about Chile’s great southern road, the Carretera Austral. It was probably two years between the conception of the story and seeing it in print in Conde Nast Traveller. Great travel pieces (and great travel writers) are worth waiting for as they capture […]

People of the Steppes

People of the Steppes

I am flying from Ulaanbaatar to Uglii in the far west of Mongolia. Beneath me, dark patches of forest, multi-coloured lakes and strips of undulating, bronze sand give colour and depth to the otherwise desolate landscape. Unbelievably, next to these features – on the edges of the forests, by the shores of the lakes and […]

, Lions Manyoni Reserve South Africa

A family holiday in South Africa

“A cheetah, smoking a cigar, wearing leather slippers” retorts my son. Our guide Vicky, a blonde-haired, blue-eyed city-girl turned bush-ranger, has just asked my twelve-year old son George what animals he was hoping to see. Vicky laughs and gives George a look that tells me she has immediately got the measure of him. Children on […]

Tides of Change in The Omo Valley

Tides of Change in The Omo Valley

The hum of affable conversation is in the air as the village of Dus gathers to prepare for a ceremony. The Kara tribe love nothing more than a raucous dance-off and I have been invited to witness the pre-party preparations. The men are putting on make-up. They have exchanged their coveted AK47s for tiny paint […]

, Gapalgos - Pinker Charter - Galapagos Penguin

My Return to the Galapagos

My return to the Galapagos has been preceded by the return of the Galapagos Island’s most famous prodigal son, Lonesome George. The world’s last remaining Pinta Island tortoise died in 2012 and following his death, the decision was made to have his body preserved. There followed two years of skillful taxidermy, undertaken by George Dante, […]


Black cab tour of London

‘Cabbies’ as they are known in the UK, are the best trained taxi drivers in the world. To become a custodian of one of London’s most iconic vehicles, a black cab driver must do ‘the knowledge’; a rigorous examination, both written and practical, that tests aspiring taxi driver’s knowledge of London’s roads and landmarks. Ask […]


Captive animal – The nature of animal tourism

The Sunday Times article on captive animal tourism has reignited a healthy debate in the Steppes office and has made us review our own code of conduct. Our clients entrust us to provide wildlife experiences that do not compromise or harm the animals with which they come into contact. This does not rule out captive […]

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Walking with the Bushmen of Namibia

“The orange glow from the flames of the fire bathe the old man in a benevolent light and reveal a wise and purposeful face. He is the healer; the pivotal figure of the healing dance to which I have been invited”. Steppes’ Product Director, Jarrod Kyte, travelled to Namibia recently and spent time with the […]

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Khaudum National Park – Namibia’s Forgotten Wilderness

With a solid handshake and a wry smile, Vitor Azevedo welcomes me to Namibia. “Are you ready for Khaudum National Park?” he asks. “We have a three hour journey along the worst road in southern Africa before we get there.” Khaudum National Park is known as Namibia’s forgotten wilderness. Things are changing though, and Khaudum […]


Space Travel – A Puna Experience

For western travellers used to concrete and the clutter of consumerism, space is a commodity worth travelling for. The emptiness of a desert or a savannah reawakens a part of the brain that hundreds of years ago looked on such open spaces and thought “what if?” I am travelling across the puna in North West […]


Battlefields, Beach and Bush

While the Cape is the poster boy for South African tourism, Kwa-Zulu Natal is the grittier and altogether more African face of South Africa. The Cape has the Garden Route, justifiably renowned for its scenic beauty; KZN has the Midlands Meander. You may be forgiven for thinking this sounds more like a wrong turn on […]