Entries by Bridget Cohen

This is Africa, this is my Africa

“I never knew of a morning in Africa when I woke up that I was not happy.” Hemingway’s words come to me as I wake in the heart of the Masai Mara. As I listen to lions greeting the dawn with roars that reached into my soul and back, I cannot agree with him more. […]


Is Social Media Really That Social?

It is one of those surreal moments. I am typing ‘zebra1234’ into my phone, to get online to tell the world that I just left where I am. Yet, if I look up from my phone, I can see one, two, three, four and more zebras coming down to the river to drink. Sitting on […]

, Infant gorilla portrait, Volcanoes National Park, Virunga National Park, Rwanda (credit Pat McKillen)

The Legend of Tarzan

The tale of the white British aristocrat who is Africa’s most famous son and saviour sits awkwardly with contemporary mores. Yet Tarzan, the original superhero inspiring the creators of Superman and Batman, and his tale of noble humanity in savage equatorial depths continues to grip popular imaginations, with a brand now worth millions. Audiences still […]

, Chilo Gorge, Gonarezhou

Clive Stockil: Gentle Giant in a Giant Park

“What is your favourite animal?” Someone asked. “Each one contributes to one another; we humans can learn from them.” Was the simple and honest answer given by Clive. He was sipping a beer quietly, while watching the sunset on his backyard – Gonarezhou National Park, Zimbabwe. Clive Stockil, a born-and-bred Zimbabwean, grew up in and […]


Attenborough in My Ear

Trekking higher into the heights of the mountains my heart pounded with growing ferocity. My mind was reliving the scene I had seen all those years ago over and over again. Was I going to see them? Would they be that close? Will I see that many? As we stopped we to catch our breath we […]


Gorillas know no rules.

“Excuse me, excuse me, coming through, coming through” said Intambara as he brushes ever so gently past me.  Intambara was speaking Gorilla beringei beringei or otherwise known as gorilla speak. I was standing in the middle of the rainforest of the now dormant volcano called Bisoke, watching the amazing mountain gorillas of Rwanda. Intambara is […]


Kalahari Meerkats

There was a crackle on the radio. “What time will you be back?” asked a somewhat harassed camp manager. “Soon, soon” was the reply from Ralph. I looked at my watch. It was just gone 3pm and only then did I realise the camp manager was asking us in for breakfast and had been for […]


Remember. Unite. Renew.

Mary, aged three. Favourite food, ice-cream. Best friend, her dad. Died, single machete blow to the head. I am standing in front of a single photo of Mary who is looking back at me with eyes so innocent and full of hope. I am standing in the children’s room in the genocide memorial. I am standing […]


Unexpected Ethiopia

“Hada, Kilita, Salista, Arabata, Hamishte”. And again… “Hada, Kilita, Salista, Arabata, Hamishte”. I was in the shadows of the Gheralta Massive in the Tigrai Region in the far North Eastern corner of Ethiopia, being taught to count to five in Tigrigna, the local dialect in the region. I had tried and unfortunately failed to scale the […]

Steppes Bake & Buy for Myeloma UK

Sausage rolls, Victoria sponge, cupcakes, quiche – the list of treats we’ve had today is filling and fantastic! After a great friend and close colleague of Steppes Travel was recently diagnosed with the bone marrow cancer Myeloma we thought we’d do something to try and raise some money (also any excuse for some Friday over […]


The Storm Gods of Africa

An iridescent green haze falls over the waterhole as we watch a hippo. Opposite, a breeding herd of elephants are taking a drink and a baby elephant, no older than three weeks, is bounding around, trying so hard to use his trunk in the way his older sister seems to have mastered. The wind starts […]


Refuelling the Senses on Safari

“So how long has it been since you have been home?” Came this voice from behind me, “too long” was my reply. Without even noticing I had placed my hand on the window of the plane as we touched down in Johannesburg. I could feel the warmth of the African sun through the window and […]


An African Remedy

“You should have said something!” Gasped Brian our very animated guide, when I show him the tsetse fly bite on my leg, which was now hotter and redder than an African sunset. “We will fix it, I just need to find a Sausage Tree” he said, and off we continue on our walk. I am […]


Good Morning Africa

Good Morning Africa There is some gentle chirping come from outside my tent, in the distance, across the river in Zimbabwe I can hear a deep rumble of a lion just clarifying to anyone that will listen that he is awake. There is a splash in the water in front of my tent at Chongwe […]


Flying with Angels

When Dr David Livingstone reached the edge of what was to become known as Victoria Falls on the 16 November 1855 he wrote “Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight”. Rolling forward a few years, on the 14 June 2013, I was hoping that the angels where still in […]


A walk on the wild side

There is a low deep rumble coming from behind me and suddenly I realise how vulnerable, and to be honest at this point somewhat scared I am of being in the middle of the Zambian bush on foot. Fortunately for me, this time, it is not a lion lurking in the bushes behind but a […]


Zambian Safari for the first time, every time

Safari for the first time, every time. “Hold tight” our guide Geoffrey said as he put the land cruiser into reverse and put his foot down. With her trunk in the air and ears flapping this female elephant was clearly not having one of her better days and she was not prepared to let us […]