View of mosque dome against blue sky.

Khiva

Originally built as a garrison town to house slaves in transit, Khiva, which is also known as Xiva by Uzbeks, was a prosperous city which fell into decline, was abandoned and then left to the ravages of the desert.

Today, thanks to UNESCO, Khiva has been restored to its former glory and unlike many cities in Central Asia, it has been preserved in its entirety. Although it has the air of a museum, slowly but surely, it is coming back to life. The harem, mosques, bazaar and madrassas are all there and to stay a night in one of the small private guest houses allows travellers to experience Khiva at its best, when the moonlit silhouettes of the tilting columns and madrassas, viewed from twisting alleyways, work their magic.

Itchan Kala, Khiva, Uzbekistan
Khiva, Uzbekistan

Why visit Khiva?

Day trips from the city can be arranged, taking in some of the local sites including a few of the historic buildings in Ichon-Qala; mosques, shrines and museums. Also a trip to Urgench, the capital of the Khorezm province of Uzbekistan, is recommended, providing a good launch point for the ‘Golden Ring’ of ancient fortresses in southern Karakalpakstan.

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Paul Craven

Paul is the Conde Nast Traveller chosen Specialist for Central Asia and the Silk Route.

I first travelled to Vietnam in 1988, when tourism was barely a concept, and have been visiting Central Asia since it was still behind the Iron Curtain. Such first-hand experience makes all the difference when talking to clients. I know the importance of asking questions, not taking the first answer as gospel, and matching the right destination to the right person.

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