Kenya Travel Guide

The key to a successful family safari is flexibility and fun. Each family has their own wish list and each member of the family will enjoy slightly different things. Therefore, for small families with young children (up to five years old), we only recommend small camps that cater for children this young. They feature flexible mealtimes and the option of a private vehicle. All guides are fantastic with children.

If travelling as a larger family group, then bush houses tend to offer the best value options. They can be booked on an exclusive basis, and include a pool and staff. You can be completely flexible on what you do and when you do it.

For children up to around 12 years of age, lodge managers and guides will happily fill their day with fun activities. These include line-fishing, identifying dung and insects, making bows and arrows and looking for animal tracks (as well as the animals themselves).

For older children and teenagers, they start to fully appreciate the animals and outdoors. They will not only engage with the guides more and learn about the cultural diversity found here, but will want to burn off some energy with mountain biking, rafting and walking safaris. The coast also offers more grown-up activities, such as kite surfing, snorkelling and sea kayaking.

The best way to enjoy a safari is to spend time in different parks, as this will offer you a choice of different wildlife, different scenery and different activities. Most people combine two different parks with some time on the coast, allowing for greater variety.

The Mara is undoubtedly the place for a classic safari – open savannah, rolling plains dotted with game and giraffes towering in the distance next to flat-top acacia trees. In contrast to this, Laikipia is home to wildlife reserves that offer more dramatic and rugged scenery, with a particular focus on rhinos and wild dogs. It is also here that you can do some of the more adventurous activities, such as horse-riding, walking or mountain biking.

Further north, you have the fiery landscapes of the Samburu region, with a dramatic volcanic landscape, softened by rivers and palm trees. The lakes (Nakuru and Naivasha) are great for birding, with vast flocks of flamingos appearing almost overnight. Alternatively, the vast plains of Tsavo offer a chance to explore one of Kenya’s wildest and largest parks. And the coast has its own marine parks, which are perfect for any number of activities.

Safaris are all about being flexible, so your guide will usually discuss what you would like to do each day and plan accordingly. As a rule of thumb, you are woken just before sunrise with a cup of tea or coffee, so you can freshen up before the day begins. You then leave camp for your morning game drive or walk around 06:30.

Breakfast is usually taken as a picnic in a shady spot in between drives or walks, returning to camp for lunch around midday. During the hottest part of the day, relax by the pool, take a siesta or watch wildlife from the camp itself. Around 16:00, there are hot drinks and biscuits, before you head out again.

Around 18:00, you then enjoy a traditional sundowner drink to toast the setting sun, before returning to camp before nightfall. After a shower and pre-dinner drinks around the fire, you settle down to a delicious dinner. This is followed by a quick nightcap, then bed.

What you are looking for will dictate when you travel. Kenya is equatorial and as such it is the altitude, rather than the latitude, that determines local climates. The coast remains warm and humid, with rain peaking from April to June (the same time as the rest of the country), with shorter rains in October and November.

The Mara and the central highlands have a cooler, temperate climate, due to their elevation. Whilst warm and pleasant during the day, they can become quite cold at night. The outline below should give you an idea as to what each month offers:

January to March

One of the hottest and driest times of the year. Little water around and, in theory, a great time for game viewing. However, temperatures can be sweltering.

April to June

South-eastern monsoon winds bring the long rains, so much of the wildlife is giving birth in preparation for the lush vegetation that will follow. It is also a great time for birders, as the birds are in their mating plumage and wildflowers are in abundance. It can be very wet, however, and a number of the coastal properties close. This is also known as ‘the green season’.

July to September

The best time to witness the wildebeest migration and the coolest time of the year. It can get very busy in the Mara National Reserve, so you need to pick your spot carefully. All of the other parks are easily accessible but free from the Mara’s crowds.

October to November

One of our clients’ favourite times to go on safari and one of ours as well. The tail end of the migration may still be around, whilst the arrival of the short rains brings the countryside to life. Flora looks lush and green, rivers flow and the animal are well fed. The air is clear, bringing spectacular sunrises and sunsets; it is no surprise that many photographers prefer this time of year. This is also known as ‘mid’ or ‘shoulder’ season.

Very easily. Those who think Kenya too busy or too commercial have either never been, or have been poorly advised when planning their trip. Around 90% of people who come to Kenya go to the Masai Mara and, even then, nearly all of these people travel between July and September.

It is also important to remember that the Mara is only one of more than 40 national parks and wildlife reserves in Kenya, and is one of the smallest. Therefore, there are more off-the-beaten-track destinations that still offer big game.

However, the Mara is undoubtedly worth a visit. But picking the right place and time of year can make a huge difference. The Mara is effectively split into two types of areas:

Masai Mara National Reserve

The main park, gazetted in its present form in 1968 by the Kenyan Government. The busiest area, with the highest number of lodges, which are usually much bigger and where game drives are confined to defined roads and tracks. The Mara and Talek Rivers dissect the park and these are where the majority of the migration crossings take place. Vehicle numbers are not restricted and the reserve is open to self-drive tourists. There are, however, a handful of very good lodges in this area.

Masai Mara Private Concessions

These are privately managed reserves, run in conjunction with Masai communities that border the National Reserve. Far better managed, they offer the same excellent wildlife opportunities, but far fewer vehicles and have much more flexibility in terms of activities and driving off-road. Numbers of tourists are heavily restricted, with access limited to those who are staying in one of the camps.

Staying here also allows you access to the National Reserve if you would like, but those staying in the National Reserve cannot visit the private concessions. You have the best of both worlds. Lodges are generally smaller, the wildlife experience better and more exclusive and the guiding of a higher quality – reflected in a higher price.

Kenya is a photographer’s dream, with an ever-changing landscape, spectacular wildlife and a rich and colourful cultural heritage. However, always ask permission when photographing people. When on safari, to get decent shots you need to consider a camera with at least a 300mm zoom lens.

Some camps are better suited to photographers, with many of the guides being amateur photographers themselves. But all guides have a knack of getting people in the right place at the right time. The shoulder season in October and November is particularly good for photography, as the light rains clear the air, keep the scenery lush and the animals healthy. There are usually spectacular skies at this time of year and far fewer tourists.

All camps have facilities to charge camera batteries and some even have specialist lenses that you can borrow.