It’s difficult not to be tiger-centric when thinking about a safari on the sub-continent. These majestic animals are synonymous with India while their plight is symbolic of endangered animals all over the planet. As India’s population grows, so does the pressure on the tiger’s habitat which in turns makes tourism an increasingly vital tool in tiger conservation. Seeing a wild tiger for the first time can be a visceral experience – take a look at our 10-day Tiger Safari in Central India or our 15-day Safari in Kanha, Pench and Satpura for the best trips to see tigers in India. But to be solely focussed on a single animal when planning a safari in India, is to overlook a whole cast of other charismatic players. At Steppes we like to celebrate the different and the downright quirky so here is our guide to seeing some of India’s less well known fauna.
What: Dhole – Indian wild dog
The Indian wild dog – or the dhole to give it its local name – is a slender canine, no bigger than a malnourished collie or dingo. Almost hunted to extinction for their misperceived cruelty, wild dogs have made a remarkable recovery. While different in appearance to their African cousins, the dynamics of an Indian wild dog pack are very similar and no less fascinating to observe. I had a memorable morning with a feeding pack of dhole in Tadoba some years ago.
Best place to see: Nagarhole in Karnataka or Kanha or Pench in Madhya Pradesh
While the most prolific sightings of wild dog are in Nagarhole, safaris in this park are government run and so you may find yourself in a canter with up to 15 other people. With this in mind we suggest heading to Kanha or Pench in Central India, where sightings are frequent and can also be combined with magnificent tiger and leopard sightings.
Where to stay: Evolve Back, Kabini in Nagarhole or Jamtara Wilderness Camp in Pench
Pench is famous for its leopard and wild dog sightings and the guides at Jamtara know their quiet corner of the park like the back of their hand. The camp is located in a secluded area with the gate to the park only a few minutes away.
What: Great hornbill
The link between birds and dinosaurs is plain to see in the physical characteristics of the great hornbill. For such a huge, spectacular bird, sightings are sadly infrequent, mainly due to their endangered status as a result of habitat loss and hunting.
Best place to see: Periyar National Park in Kerala or Corbett National Park in Uttarakhand
For the best times to see great hornbills, visit Periyar in the monsoon period (also a great time for seeing snakes) or in November to December when they can be seen feeding on the parks’ numerous fig trees. An alternative to Periyar is Corbett National Park, staying at Jim’s Jungle Retreat, whose naturalist tells us that he has seen great hornbills during the mating season (April-May) in the Dhela zone of the park, close to the lodge.
Where to stay: CGH Spice Village in Periyar or Jim’s Jungle Retreat in Corbett
Modelled on a local Manan tribal village and adopting innovative systems to ensure minimal environmental impact, stay in elegant yet simple cottages surrounded by the verdant, forested hills of Thekkady in the Western Ghats.
What: Red panda
Is it a racoon? Or is it a bear? For a long time scientists couldn’t agree but have now chosen to give the red panda its very own taxonomy (ailuridae, in case you’re interested). That aside, the red panda is arguably the cutest animal on the planet which perhaps explains why they have become a flagship species for endangered wildlife all over the world. Half the world’s wild red pandas have been lost in the last 20 years but recent efforts from conservationists have begun to turn the tide with innovative collaring programs and initiatives to work more closely with local communities.
Best place to see: Singalila National Park, Darjeeling
Fly into Bagdogra in West Bengal and travel 6-7 hours across the border into Nepal and then back into India to stay at Habre’s Nest on Singalila Ridge. An animal this charismatic is worth doing a mini-expedition for and the journey through Nepal and up onto the Singalila Ridge is spectacular. This area is not only renowned for red pandas, it is also home to almost 600 species of orchid and is one of India’s prime birding areas, with close to 300 Himalayan species recorded. For mountain lovers, Singalila offers an exceptional panoramic view of 4 out of the 5 highest peaks in the world.
Where to stay: Habre’s Nest
This locally owned and run homestay is surrounded by Himalayan cloud forest from where 32 different species of red panda have been recorded. The property comprises of 4 basic en suite rooms with balcony and considers itself to be a ‘research hub cum wildlife tourism centre’. The owners have set up a trust which shares 20% of it’s profit to go towards the conservation of red panda habitat.
What: Himalayan brown bear
The largest land carnivore on the sub-continent – yes, bigger than the tiger – can weigh up to 400 kgs and stand up to 3 metres tall on their hind legs.
Best place to see: Drass, Kargil district of Ladakh
Living at an altitude of 3,000-5,500 metres, on some of the Himalaya’s more exposed and remote mountains, these are not easy animals to see (let alone, photograph). A tolerance for cold conditions is a must. Travel to Drass in April when the snow has receded and the Himalayan brown bear is coming out of hibernation with cubs, in dire need of food.
Where to stay: Drenmo Lodge
Drenmo Lodge comprises of six rooms, providing a cosy and comfortable base from which to explore the surrounding valleys for wildlife. Explore the region by vehicle and on foot with your local guide. Local spotters are located in all the key wildlife areas, calling in sightings of bears, wolves, foxes and ibex. Drenmo’s owners are committed to changing the perception of the local community towards brown bears, by using tourism as a means to create opportunity and economic development.
Something different: Visit the Aryan community located two hours from the lodge and stay overnight at a homestay. Known locally as the ‘Brokpa’, the people of this region have a distinct culture, language, dress and belief system.
What: Striped hyena
Loathed by hunters for being cowardly, despised by rural communities for being grave robbers yet sought after by purveyors of traditional medicine for their body parts…being a striped hyena is not an easy life. Researchers are waking up to the fact that little is known about these curious animals and there is a need to disavow communities of the folklore that still exists. They are primarily scavengers, and so play an important role in clearing up their habitat and keeping on top of infections.
Best place to see: Little Rann of Kutch or Velavadar in Gujarat
The wide open plains of the dried marshland found at Little Rann are perfect for spotting the characteristic gait of the striped hyena. The best time for sightings are March – June when the striped hyena and desert fox are denning but be warned, the heat at this time can be uncomfortable, between 40-45 C. Little Rann is also favoured by wild ass and is an important feeding and breeding ground for huge volumes of migratory birds. Velavadar is easily combined with Rann of Kutch (both little and big) where the flat, grass savannah is not only a great habitat for striped hyenas but also renowned for its herds of iconic blackbuck.
Where to stay: Rann Riders or Black Buck Lodge
Take an all-day safari from Rann Riders to explore the temple at Vachraj Bet or walk across the volcanic hill at Murdak looking for marine fossils. The guides at Black Buck Lodge are renowned for their birding prowess.
Talk to our experts about combining trips to see any of these charismatic species with Indian big cat safaris to look for snow leopards and tigers.
